Motorola Digital XTS 3000 User Manual

Batdude’s Guide for theXTS 3000 - XTS 5000and Astro Digital Saber3 September 2006Revised 3 November 2006

A Series vs. B Series Housings“A” Series radios (I.e. H09RDH9PW7AN) use a different controllerboard (NCN6128) that has a different plug on it for conn

Ok, back on track….In the below picture, you see the radio with the front shield completely removed.LCD Flex retainer bracket – has two snaps that mus

These are the three mounting posts for the LCD protector (black rubber piece). Make sure the red plastic is on there as it helps retain the LCD secur

I normally just use the plastic special tool for this, but a small flat blade screwdriver works just as well. Note the “finger” of the LCD flex stick

There are four small retainers that must be released to remove the keypadFlex assembly. Once removed you can remove the entire keypad flex assembly a

There is a small cutout that forms a notch that holds the NCN6167 controller board in place. If you gently lift the controller board up from the BOTT

Nice view of the NCN6167 controller board and LCD assembly after partial removal…..oh by the way… that controller board is about $400… and the LCD is

This is your VOCODER. It’s not a VOCON – It’s a VOCODER. This is where your DSP firmware is stored. Note that it’s installed upside down.These two h

The NTN8250 VOCODERBe careful – don’t fry it or drop it – current replacement cost is around $400.00Note the keying lugs on these connectors – they’re

Removing the RF Shield… not required for my project… but shown to you!There is one retainer clip on the left side that must be removed….this is the sa

As I sat down today to install a NTN8255 DES-OFB module into an XTS 3000 portable radio, I thought some of you would appreciate an informal walkthroug

There are two small detents that must be disengaged to remove the RF board shield. Note the blue RF cable – be VERY careful with this cable – it’s tw

RF Shield removed…..The RF board is removed by lifting it from the LEFT side (long silver can) and tilting it upward to free the two retainers from th

Ok.. What I was really here for…This is a side view of the secure module and it’s mounting tray. Note the gap between the secure module and the retai

Lay the secure module in the retainer tray as shown. There are notches in this tray that will retain the board. Lay it flat as shown and then slide

Notice how the secure board lays flat in the mounting tray – and note the bend in the tray (the “V” shape) – this is the correct layout!

There are two detents on the LEFT HAND SIDE that must be engaged FIRST. Once they have snapped into place, use your screwdriver to GENTLY press down

One properly installed secure module… note that the metal secure module retainer board is snug against the chassis….

When you re-install the Controller board (noting the “notch” at the top of the frame….) you can gently press down on the yellow caps on top of the boa

The Idiot CheckOnce you have the controller board mated to the secure module and properly reseated into the chassis, check to make sure you can see th

Install the keypad flex and shield assembly…there are four retainers that must engage the chasiss….Then engage the Keypad flex retainer….

Without this tool, I can guarantee that you will either split the end of the case plastic, as shown in the below picture, or gouge/destroy the protect

The LCD DisplayThe XTS 3000 LCD has a very serious weak link – the flex. You must be extremely careful during installation and removal or you will te

LOOK MOM! My o-ring isn’t torn up!Note the rubber tit at the bottom of the LCD is engaged in the keypad flex shield and the “finger” is sticking out

Insert the chassis into the top of the front shield…. The two upper metal tabs on the casting will slide UNDER the yellow lip below the MOTOROLA logo…

One trick that I’ve used is to turn the tool around BACKWARDS and very gently pry the case outward while simultaneously pushing down on the radio chas

Note that the o-ring is NOT visible from the outside and that there is ZERO DAMAGE to the bottom of the front shield…. Done RIGHT!

And the final result…..

Those Damn KnobsThe frequency knob inserts on the 3000 and 5000 are *NOT* the same, neither is the sticker that goes on the insert! Alas, you use the

Insert differences• XTS 3000– Channel select insert• P/N 4305373Z01– Channel escutcheon• P/N 1305374Z01– Volume insert• P/N 4305372Z01• XTS 5000– Chan

Ok… some on the 5000The XTS 5000 is VERY similar, yet very different from the XTS 3000 series radios. It’s obvious from the internals that they learn

LCD flex plugFront Shield flex plugKeypadflex plug

Of course, I’ll show you this, just because Ithink it’s indicative of how about 80% of thepeople out there open up their radios:

Nice shot of the LCD connector. The rubber locator pad surrounding the LCD is only secured on two posts on the 5000 – the 3000 uses three posts…

This is the “old style” NTN4563 VOCON. It has been replaced with the NNTN4717 VOCON. It uses a different processor (RAM22 in self test) than the NNT

Note that the XTS 5000 only uses a single compression connector….NNTN5032 XTS 5000 Universal Cryptographic Module (UCM)

Two retainer tabs at the top of the RF shield, just like the 3000There are four clips on the 5000 RF board shield, two on each side – similar to the 3

This is a unique feature of the 5000 – there is a rubber pad on top of the RF board in between the actual circuit board and the RF shield. Note here

This is the NTN8910 VHF XTS 5000 RF board. Note the same little blue cable connects the RF board to the RF connector on the chassis… BE CAREFUL!

This is the backside of the NTN4563 VOCON – showing the secure module and it’s mating socket on the rear of the board.

This is the best view I could get of the tab / notch at the top of the VOCON. This is very similar to the XTS 3000 in that it serves to secure the to

This is my technique for installing the front shield onto the chasis. The rubber pad on the back of the housing connector flex is sitting at the bott

The remainder of the reassembly is the same as the 3000 – the same methods can be applied and you’ll enjoy a nice looking, undamaged case. In the nex

Okay, you have finally ordered your handy-dandy white opener tool, Motorola part number 6685833D01 (cost is about $4.00) and you’re ready to crack the

The Astro Digital SaberI first held one of these radios in the spring of 1996, over 10 years ago. What a wonder of modern technology! Of course, at

The Astro Digital Saber, Model 3, VHF with the new HNN9033 Impres battery

Tools required: A small phillips and a split blade screwdriver

Step 1: Remove the accessory/programming port cover…Step 2: Loosen the two slotted screws at the bottom… no need to remove the belt clip….

Screw the antenna onto the radio and gently pull it out of the housing….

Contrary to popular belief, you do NOT need to pry on the two retainer tabs at the bottom of the front shield…. Just put your thumb where the yellow “

There are three connectors that must be removed from the radio to take it apart. The lower connector in this picture is for the side PTT flex. The u

Front shield separated from the chassis

RF board flex removal, gently pry upwards and it pops right off.

After you get the front shield separated from the chassis, you’ll have the radio disassembled to this point (note the o-ring is intact and undamaged):

Now the fun part. You have to remove four little phillips screws to get the vocon out of the chassis. These are very easy to strip the screwheadsout

Once you get the screws out of the vocon carrier, this is what you are left with. A front cover, a rear cover and the vocon itself.

Pay attention how the two halves of the vocon shield fit together.

The biggest Achilles heel of the Astro Saber – the damn interconnect.

Vocon removed, RF board shield still in place.

RF board is held into place with four notches built into the shield. Pry upwards on these to unseat them (2 on each side) and the RF shield can be re

Sorry for the crappy pic guys – but this is the Astro Saber RF board and secure module. The secure module is retained by metal fingers in the chassis

Notice something funny about this header connector?Laugh now young Jedi. I actually bought a “DOA” Astro Saber on ebaywith it’s header connector inst

The radio can now be reassembled using the reverse of the disassembly instructions. Pay close attention to that header connector – it’s easy to bend

Your comments always appreciated… and don’t forget to visit…..http://batboard.batlabs.com

Separating the front shield flex from the chassis can be tricky, but you’ll get the hang of it – you can use your thumb to pop the flex connector off:

Two things in this picture – one is the connector type – this is a “B” series connector (notice how wide it is with the male plug in the center). The

Universal Connector RetainerOld style on the left, new on theright. Motorola kit 4205582Z07 was aretrofit for the old style. You will have tocall pa